An entirely new and exciting day dawned for one more round of fashion shows of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia 2019, with collections ranging from classically chic and timeless, to new and exciting ventures into the would of experimental and young fashion.
GLOBAL TALENTS INITIATIVE: VANTA ITALY
glo brand, supporting Global Talents, stands for fashion in all of its aspects, however, the brand s especially sympathetic to emerging designers. This year, glo is going to support the shows of 9 young foreign designers.
One of the nine lucky laureates of MBFWRussia’s all-new Global Talents Initiative, Vanta - a burgeoning brand from Italy - present a wonderful assortment of garments made of denim and cotton - with masterful tailoring on the shirts and Middle-Eastern references.
The brand is most concerned with its sartorial techniques and it really showed - palazzo trousers and coats featured beautiful graphic prints in the style of Kandinsky or Mondrian, and the oversized pant legs brought to mind the sandy dunes of Morocco.
Jackets of well-crafted cotton also had soft silhouettes that reminded one of Turkish traditional costumes, while the color pallette of the vast raincoats and capes - terracotta, black, grey and cerulean - supported this Eastern vision.
Accessorized with bright cording in place of belts and ties and fashionable oversized denim tote bags, the collection felt direct, yet subtle, the constructed looks with open stitching revealing an elegant freeing of the male form.
The gently faded colors of prins on the sweaters and shirts gave the entire collection a special elegance.
A unique and gregarious feature to start off this new day of shows.
SZFL / Slava Zaitsev’s Fashion Laboratory
The great educational undertaking of Slava Zaitsev, one of the true maitres of Russian fashion, has returned, bringing us short and sweet collections from several graduates of his personalized training program.
A collection aptly titled “Gulf Stream” by Galina and Nikolay Biryukov was just as refreshing as its namesake - a mixed childrens and adults marine collection, showing sailor stripe prints on jackets, shirts and skirts for the kids and a fascinating metallic and electric blue-and-earthy print on sashes, dresses and coats for the adults.
Every look was complete with a finely-crafted, marine-themed pilot hat, while little anchors and insignia proved to be great focal points that completed these sailor-themed looks.
Young designer Yulia Gorgaeva showed a collection of silken silvery numbers and white cotton dresses, along with a selection of white, almost see-through shirts, suits and knitted cardigans for the men.
Distressed cotton could be seen on the fabulous column dresses and smoky little black black looks. Little faux fur capes and evening gowns brought this tightly-tailored collection to absolute perfection. Tulle underskirts showed that the designer’s range is varied and seductive, while the ending touche - a wispy, silken cotton trench coat - showed exuberance, talent and flexibility.
A brave collection for those unafraid, in designers own words, to to break out of the gray mass of the metropolis, this futuristic streetwear ensemble turned out to be an extremely chic and elegant collection with long vests showing butterfly print reminding one of Alexander McQueen’s work and structural bug-like neoprene shoulderwork.
Sashes and bags created from deconstructed sneakers and trousers folded over onto themselves in an origami-like fashion were an especially daring and sophisticated choice.
Later in this collection we saw photo prints of MMA fighters, pro runners and other athletes on many of the garments, and oversized silk print coats with PVC clear pockets, showing off acid-pink hoods.
A large silk and tulle zebra print dress finished off this collection, that was as exciting as it was modern and novel.
A playful and and punch-drunk collection that showed us puffy polka dot skirts, patterned with a criss-cross print, dresses that worked with black and white as well as orange and teal combinations. The looks were all thin-waisted and dramatically accessorized - big chunky boots colored with a fade-out print, bows of black and white and big, curly hair for all models.
Finishing up this charming collection was a large polka-dot sack dress as an exciting dessert.
A beautifully bold collection titled “Giving Freedom”, inspired by the Great French Revolution, the designer brought out an entirely new fashion statement for the empowered woman of 2019. Corseted garments in dramatic black and red, masks of black and red lace and latex, crows feathers and exaggerated shoulders on tops embellished with sequins. Some dresses fit tightly, like cocoons, others flowed wildly with each movement. Models sported dramatic pancake-white makeup with red eye lenses, and strutted confidently in these exciting haute-couture numbers, which gave the collection a witchy and powerful aura.
Another of the Global Talents Initiative is upported by glo selectees, Jing Yu is a fashion designer born in China and currently living and working in Milan. After finishing the BA course in Istituto Marangoni Milano, Jing has moved to London for 2 years, working with contemporary artists in the field of performance and film.
This new collection was inspired by the works of Pina Bausch and the inner state of the oppressed individuals under the current social pressure and the violence hidden behind calmness. Light cotton coats began this story - an amalgam of Asiatic and European influences with a strong understanding of the history of costume. Miniature black coats and jackets (gathered tensely at the back) and white tops with see-through fabric elements in the back and velvet dresses and coats of black wool made their appearance - a vulnerable yet defensive image, like a flower afraid to be broken.
Woolen black headpieces, reminiscent of 15th century Lowlands costume made a poignant touch to all looks, while mens jackets worn over dresses of sandy and earthy tones created a depth and warmth seldom seen from such a young designer. Asymmetric sleeves and tailored layering of cotton fabric were up next, followed closely by elongated sky-blue shirt-like dresses.
Much experimental work on the sleeves was a special part of the evening - sleeves either hung freely from the shoulders or were worn as sashes. This very chic collection, inspired also by the photographic works of the Russian writer Leonid Andreyev, turned out to be a beautiful treat for the artsy and creative audience.
INSTITUTE OF BUSINESS AND DESIGN (B&D)
As a leading educational institution in Russia, Institute of Business and Design every year graduates highly skilled creative specialists. It’s Apparel Design Department, under the direction of Sergey Sysoev, have been presenting their collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week for years, and this time is no exception. The new collections were gathered under a common theme - “Inside Me” - an exploration of the students own feelings, fears and hopes and desired. This made for a very varied and eclectic selection indeed:
A dazzling and forward-thinking assortment of wonderfully different and new ideas from the students of the Institute of Business and Design.
RAHEL GUIRAGOSSIAN (Global Talents supported by glo, Switzerland)
A shimmering and silken collection of robes with prints inspired by Moroccan art and architecture. A great variety of dresses with clear impressionist influences, especially those touched by segments of by Manet or Matisse’s goldfish.
A beautiful assortment of silky green and floral patterns, made one feel as if they were watching some townsfolk from the Emerald City on parade.
Bottle-glass green prints were also seen on stylish jackets, which were accessorized with natural amber and crystals.
Bold fuchsia belts and abstract patterns of neon added an entirely fresh fleur to these bright, colorful ensembles.
The collection was rounded up with vast gowns and small silk shirts of lucious fabrics, silk shirts with ruffles near the hemline, and multicoloured elegant combo dresses.
A gorgeous kaleidoscope of fashion eleganza.
Lesya Volchok-Rusakovich’s all new collection was a high-concept undertaking from the get-go. Keeping in mind her own personal vision of femininity, we were treated to an army of models - all body shapes, heights and sizes, walking as if into a battle, wearing nude-colored bodysuits. The designer’s love for architecture and abstract forms quickly became evident, with white, nude and warm color palette ruling the runway. Gentle tan and pale nude coats, robes and draperies, gathered sheer tulle and silk sleeves. Elegant puffed-up bags of silk.
Wool coats with criss-cross belts. Beautiful sandpaper tones on jackets and exquisite trousers, shimmery nude raincoats and glistening silken fabric for dresses. It’s as if the audience were transported into Rusakovich’s own personal dreamy, cloudy empire, a trance-like state of tenderness and bliss, through these gentle looks of silk and pink tulle.
Several stricter black looks were featured later in the show, yet still included tufts of tulle of pink and nude, or ruffles from white gathered fabric, bursting out as if they could not contain their own tenderness.
A poetic and sensual collection, and one sure to bring this young designer’s reputation to an entirely new level.
A bright and bubbly set from the young performer, that made the entire audience of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia dance in unison, this youthful and energetic star of stage has certainly found her set of new fans on this day, with an electronic, teeny-bopper sound that took us all the way back to 1980s.
A popular young band that garnered hundreds of thousands of views on youtube, Komsomolsk closed the day off with a cool and charming medley of their best works - including their well-known hits “Where are we know” and “All is gone”, both of which got a wave of applause from the crowd gathered around the grand stage of the floor at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.
Mercedes-Benz is the leading partner of the Russian Fashion Week.
Partners of MBFW Russia include: glo (Official partner), Mary Kay (Official Makeup Partner and provider), MONE (Official stylist), DHL (Official logistics partner), Metropol (Official hotel), Laska (Official partner).
You can watch any of our upcoming shows via live feed on Vogue.ru.
Additional information is available through the ARTEFACT GROUP Agency