HOUSE OF DNA (India)
Harbingers of what they call “slow-fashion”, the two young designers from India showed us a beautifully bohemian collection of traditional Indian shapes and fabrics, patterned with floral and ornamental prints. Saris, coats of luscious Indian silks and jackets covered with applique work, long patterned scarves and elegant vests, all made perfect with wide-brimmed hats for accessories. Paisley prints or special applique work depicting wildflowers, gave this collection a very modern feel, while also staying with its exotic roots.
You simply cannot go wrong with a collection like that — the shawls and throws evoked both the bazaars of Mumbai and Russian country houses, with the pre-revolutionary landowners favouring paisley and floral prints in their clothing.
Later in the show we saw an assortment of fabulous coats that rounded up this collection excellently.
GLOBAL TALENTS supported by glo:RAP (Bangladesh)
Russia met Asia in this collection from Rokaiya Ahmed Purna, one of the winners of the GLOBAL TALENTS Initiative. Traditional Russian sarafan dresses were hand-sewn with Bangladeshi traditional motifs, playful and whimsical depiction of childrens drawings or matryoshkas (Russian nesting dolls). Utilizing silk — a naturally recyclable and self-sustaining fabric — RAP stays true to its ideals of sustainable fashion.
Long tassels and silk dolls hanging by the models earrings for accessories, the designer told a charming story of her infatuation with folk art and traditional handicrafts.
A show like no other, Rokaiya’s new collection was equal parts delightful and deep — a trip through the traditional crafts of two very different cultures, that are perhaps not that different after all.
GLOBAL TALENTS supported by glo:Anano D. Bakradze (Georgia)
A sexy and luxurious collection titled “Queen of the night” was presented to us next by one of the winners of MBFW Russia’s GLOBAL TALENT Initiative — sheer and see-through dresses with added feathers, black and stylish looks created with a talented eye for the female form.
Velvet coats of black and gold (with applique work of tarnished gold flowers) and avant-garde sweaters (hand-knitted, with added tassels) were an unexpected and unique addition.
These bold, silvery-white wool jumpers were so long, they worked perfectly as dresses, and some of the tasseling on the sleeves was long enough to reach the runway floor.
A tremendously elegant and stylish collection for the Autumn/Winter 2019 season.
RUSSIAN ARTISAN EXPEDITION
This special presentation by a number of young designers from Western Europe was born out of the expedition into the centers of Russian traditional workmanship last August undertaken by these young visionaries — from Orenburg with it’s famous wool scarves to the sensational works of Khokhloma and Palekh masters.
This trip was utilized well, with the first part of this collective show being devoted to gentle sarafan dresses and white coats, tied off with big statement belts depicting photographic prints. Palekh was used in this collection, appearing on neon-green tops and skirts of rose-gold satin.
The second collection showed us an assortment of raincoats and Autumn looks, with prints appearing near the bottom of the garments.
Shiny pleather jackets of bright-red were also seen, worn over cotton shirts, as well as tracksuit pants, which gave the collection a youthful feel.
The third and final offering from this expedition was a varied and unique collection of sweaters and knitted dresses, some printed out with traditional Khokhloma designs, while other looks in this assortment of silk dresses (complete with latex gloves) used bold graphics to set themselves apart. A romantic and tender venture into the inherent skill of Russian folk art masters.
I think it can be said with assurance that the knowledge passed on by these regional teachers has not gone to waste in these young luminaries, and the skill they got from the expedition was visible to all from the very first glance.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/W4bkhNSPiRuS3w OKSANA FEDOROVA
If you’re looking for the ultimate Russian multi hyphenate, look no further than Oksana Fedorova. She was crowned Miss Universe in 2002, but also happens to be a retired policewoman and model, in addition to having an a career as an actress, singer and TV presenter. Her womenswear brand — currently on its fifth year — is called “Transformation”. It is simultaneously a very conservative concept, referring to the Russian Orthodox tradition, but also in the modern sense, meaning change, improvement and modernization.
Fedorova served up a collection of suits — silvery grey and cinched — coats — woolen and timeless in their design and cut, and sweaters and shirts in a classic color palette of black, grey and white.
Houndstooth patterns on elegant formal garments and polka-dotted prints on white dresses, along with lacy see-through tops were present later in the collection, as well as gorgeous woolen red coats and skirts were a bold and inspiring move.
Buttoning and fur capes reminded one of traditional Russian boyar dress, and in fact most of the collection recalled traditional and ancient Russian dress. The accessories included dainty little lace gloves and beautiful pearls.
The last part of the collection was given to evening wear — especially asymmetrical sequined dresses of black and dark blue — and white robe dresses straight out of a Russian Orthodox festival. A live musical performance by a violin and percussion band finished off this luxurious and expansive collection.
With nearly 40 stores carrying her designs in nearly a dozen countries, and a private appointment-only atelier in Beaulieu sur Mer on the famed Cote D’Azur, this Ukraine-born designer has quietly conquered the Eastern European “it-girl” niche. At a time when the post-Soviet fashion scene was divided between minimalist monochrome and the gaudy gold of the nouveau riche, her bright floral aesthetic struck a winning style chord.
A metallic, sparkling and forward-thinking collection was presented by Minochkina, with snake-like prints and textures sewn into this shimmery fabric — a definite indication that this collection is meant for a real party girl. With the color palette including maroon, violet, purple and black, we could easily see a social butterfly on her club night. Polka dots, netting, tulle gowns, ruffs, animal prints and beadwork made this collection even sexier and more playful. Hanging by tiny straps, these dresses would suit Jessica Rabbit — or anyone who ever wanted to be her as a girl.
Rounding up this serving of looks were several golden puffer coats and jackets — reminding one that one can stay sexy and stylish even in the Russian Winter.
Finally, we were treated to an assortment of modern and feminine dresses in black silk and tulle, which are perfect for that 5 AM ride home from the party.
Practical, chic and sexy, Minochkina’s new creations are sure to please a girl who knows exactly what she wants.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/ki9kvSX3RazzagPRODUCT OF IMITATION
The Russian designer Anton Galetsky comes back to fashion industry with an entirely new brand. Together with Elena Vitebskaia they have created the Product of Imitation — fashionable, relevant and affordable clothes for modern women. Their debut collection — Autumn-Winter 19 — is inspired by Princess Diana and the 1980s.
Following a short film, in which a woman similar to Lady Diana Spencer left a hotel and got into a car, which ended in an abrupt crash sound, we were treated to a live piano performance by composer and the pianist Mischa Fomin.
The show proper has begun, and we saw that it consisted of true British classics — riding trousers and shirts, macintoshes and trench coats in muted tones, and the bright fuschia colors on some of the elegant 80s style suits — Lady Di’s personal favorite.
What we got in this collection, essentially, is a retrospective of timeless British style — worn by denizens of Knighsbridge and sloane rangers to this day.
Permed hair on all models added to the image of “The Peoples Princess”, while brightly-printed scarves worn with big-shouldered jackets showed a great understanding of the time period.
Chequered suits and dresses emblazoned with prints of tabloids from the era were a particularly smart move on the designers part. Cozy mauve sweaters reminded us of Diana’s gentle private life, while evening wear — glittery gowns, for example — showed her wild side.
All in all, a touching and poignant tribute and a well-crafted collection of looks for any occasion.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/i29BYSOHdufBGAJULIA DALAKIAN
Julia Dalakian’s personal brand has been on the fashion market for more than 20 years. While the designers started out presenting her collections in Berlin and Dusseldorf, she has been with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia since it’s very conception.
A fully-fledged voguing performance awaited us, with models in low-cut dresses and iridescent jackets of green, silver and gold dancing their hearts out in a wild and glamorous beginning to the show.
The collection itself started immediately afterwards — a metropolitan series of looks, extremely modern and en vogue. Black dresses, bright leather jackets of emerald, puffy parkas with leopard print, sweaters of distressed wool and harness dresses coupled with tulle skirts and fur collared coats — all this gave a definite impression of fashions for a city girl, and one that likes to be noticed. Bomber jackets over blood-red tops with mirror insets — a particularly bold choice.
This blood-red tone seemed to rule the latter half of the collection, in fact, with electric leather jackets, coats and pullovers all beating the same color palette. Another performance — this time a vocal duet — closed off this fabulous show.
HOVANSKIE is a younger Russian brand, founded in 2017 by twins Ilya and Nikita Hovanskie.
They are well-known for their provocative style, as well as their progressive work with shapes and silhouettes. This new colorful collection, consisting of floral print gowns, oversized mens jackets and psychedelic stretch fabric tops, was smartly accessorized with security passes.
Big dresses with shimmery camo print and doctors medical-white coats, as well as simple-yet-fun combos of bikini tops and oversized jackets made this a collection for lovers of The Matrix and hypebeasts alike. Cyberpunk influences and a futuristic, genderless approach were both felt in this collection, which was incredibly refreshing.
Loose and fun silhouetting and an overall colorful and youthful feel to the collection made it one of the highlights of the day. Sexy, unpretentious and open about its influences, the new works by HOVANSKIE were impressive and cool, with streetwear garments for both men and women.
A black bridal gown in tulle tied this collection up neatly.
RUBAN brand was established in 2010 by sisters-designers Alice and Julia Ruban. They have come a long way in the fashion-industry, growing from intern-assistants to high demand stylists. As stylists, they felt a lack of creative solutions in design and were passionate and ambitious enough to set up their own fashion brand with the unique signature. The RUBAN brand operates in the luxury segment and has strengthened its position in the home market in nine years since founding, proving its leadership in Russian fashion industry.
The sisters showed a clean and elegant collection of evening gowns, trench coats and little black dresses, as well as some creative layering for the tops.
Elegant gowns of white and pink, beige coats, short skirts in baby pink and leather puffer jackets finished up this sleek show.
Alexander Arutyunov was born in Georgia (Tbilisi), where he lived until his he went away to school in Moscow. Though he found his passion there it wasn’t until he went back to Georgia where he found his inspiration. With Georgia’s strong traditions and cultural values, it was a major influence on his work. The first collection of Alexander Arutyunov was presented in Moscow in 2011. Since then, Arutyunov never missed a season. He features two collections a year, simultaneously working on his capsule collections and his line of accessories and jewelry.
This special presentation in the Museum of Moscow was a beautifully colorful AW19 collection, with column dresses in veridian, leather trousers and knitted sweaters (knitwork is one of Arutyunovs well-known high points. Sportswear and evening wear were both present, giving the collection a varied feel. Black jackets accessorized with pheasant feathers or bold statement hats of red felt, crimson dresses and beautiful Ascot hats — this collection has something for everyone, but would most suit an artsy girl, as some of these looks were perfect for visiting museums or galleries. Arutyunovs excellent sense of personal style has made sure that this collection won’t be forgotten any time soon.
MUSIC SETS ZABAVA
This young singer-songwriter gave the performance of her life. Having spent 10 years in the “Azure Coast” group, she entertained the public with hits from her recent solo career, to thunderous applause.
This electronic music producer has been around the Russian stage for the last 30 years, bringing fresher beats every time. His hit remix “Schastye Est” featured quotes from Mikhail Gorbachev and stayed in the musical top lists for months. His DJ set today has not disappointed — with new and classic compositions (such as his remix of King of My Castle) merging to form a coherent narrative.
DJ SET| DJ SET OSD ( UMAKER): yadi.sk/d/Lr8J6xqZqE02mg
BEHIND THE SCENES yadi.sk/d/2-XCfSX1seKs4A
CATWALK VIDEO yadi.sk/d/uf5-zk3R3n7gjg
POP-UP SHOP yadi.sk/d/P7PMYxZBhrTE8Q
Mercedes-Benz is the leading partner of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.
Partners of MBFW Russia include: glo (Official partner), Mary Kay (Official Makeup Partner and provider), MONÉ PROFESSIONAL(Official stylist), DHL (Official logistics partner), Region of Madrid Spain (Official destination), Metropol (Official hotel), Laska (Official partner).
You can watch any of our upcoming shows via live feed on Vogue.ru.
Additional information is available through the ARTEFACT GROUP Agency