GLOBAL TALENTS supported by glo:ANNAISS YUCRA MANCILLA (Peru)
Women’s rights and their violations are an extremely important issue in countries of Latin America, with femicides increasing in the region in a rate of more than 15% per year. This new collection by the young designer from Peru, titled RESISTENCIA (ENDURANCE), is devoted to battling these issues and empower women worldwide.
Techniques such as handmade embroidery, intarsia knitting, manual screen-printing and digital printing as well as laser cutting were used in the creation of this collection.
Accompanied by the sounds of protest messages, emergency services phonecalls and newsreel audio, this was an unconventional show — models were strewn out on the runway in poses of distress and anguish, while some of them lay lifeless.
The collection itself included bright fabrics — neon pink, green and yellow — and outerwear and capes of bright PVC. Ruffs and traditional prints were an exceptionally beautiful part of this important and socially-minded collection, which impressed the audience greatly.Global Talents project has been arranged by the Russian Fashion Council with support of the Public Chamber of the Moscow Region and started in January 2019. Global Talents is also supported by glo.
The designer presented a fully hand-crafted childrens and teens collection of glittery dresses, tulle skirts and lace, with young models sporting little Bambi horns in their hair, and others coming out in full knitwear looks, such as an oversized cardigan and a fully woollen dress of beige that was particularly impressive and memorable. Titled “Kings path”, this varied and fun collection would work well for a young city student.
Boys and girls assortment of artsy garments that made use of abstract black-and-white prints and lettering and black metal fonts. Belts and straps with the brands logo proved to be an ingenious accessory and were worn as chokers or around the waist and wrists.
Hand-drawn portraits of rock stars and strange monsters on streetwear basics such as longsleeves, hoodies, crop tops, made for an extremely wearable and current collection.
One pleasant and charming collection of bridal and formal wear — dresses in nude, beige and white tones, using tulle layering and lace overskirts, showing a wide range of dresses for debutante balls, formal dinners and country outings.
Later in the show we saw black and gold sparkling dresses and a beautiful skirt of gold leaf feathers.
Anna Pogodina and Regina Listopad presented a summery and stylish collection of essentials — dresses and pantsuits, floral prints and denim. An unmistakably American feel, with prairie dresses, business suits and jean jackets, the collection felt like a trip of a girl from Iowa to the big city to finally make it, with some stops for lunch with the girls on the way there. The girl ends up going to art school instead — millenial pink shirts and dresses that wouldn’t look out of place in New York’s The Wing club make sure of that.
The brand, created in 2006, impressed the crowd with a tribal performance by a shaman clad in wolfskin right from the get-go. The collection continued this magical theme — Evstigneeva is most known for her bridal couture, but here we saw a decidedly pagan wedding, with models dressed in white robes reminiscent of the Ivan Kupala festival, or in gorgeous black or red dresses splattered with star constellations. Carrying bouquets, these Slavonic enchantresses have cast a spell over the audience.
The second part of the show showed us a more traditional bridal selection, with dresses of light mint tint and black, silk and tulle, printed with minimalist dandelion patterns and cleverly folded over onto themselves making for some fascinating silhouettes.
The finale was especially beautiful — a minty and gorgeous bridal gown in many layers, blooming gently on the runway.
The brand NIKOLAY LEGENDA was first established in September 2012 by Olga Kapitonova – a graduate of St. Petersburg State University’s industrial technology and design course. Since then, she’s been the recipient of many awards and has been a mainstay of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.
This new and completely genderless collection, titled “JAZZ BOYS ONLY” and inspired by John Waters’ “Cry-Baby” continues the brands well-known tropes of minimalism and plays with masculinity on an entirely new level.
Shown in mostly muted greys and blacks, the collection ranged from sportswear — cotton shirts and shorts, mesh tops, tracksuit bottoms — to the formal — vast silver coats and techwear-style evening jackets.
Yet all models could be worn either by men or women, which made for a nice change in attitude.
The entire collection was fully hand-crafted, and used clear lines and a laconic cut to get it’s point across.
DIANA ARNO (Эстония/ Estonia)
A fresh designer in MBFW Russia’s GLOBAL TALENT Initiative, Diana’s collection is an illustration of a modern day spy: it features elegant floor sweeping dresses, trench coats with cinched waist and oversized pockets ready to fit in all the women’s secrets. Sandy beige, forest green, dusky burgundy and blurred-edge watercolour polka dots are creating an exquisite company to the flowy ruffles and feminine lace appliques.
Classic silhouettes and patterns were utilized in creating these effortlessly chic leather and wool coats and patterned dresses of lightest fabric.
The final looks reinforces the Lady Spy idea, with the use of beautiful trench coats and a very creative sleeveless dress made from rain-resistant fabric.
A collection for the modern-day vamp, and one that aims to wow those around her.
Speranza Couture by NADEZDA YUSUPOVA
The life motto of Nadezda Yusupova, the designer of Speranza Couture, has long been the quote of the French writer Emile Zola:”The only happiness in life is a constant striving forward”. For 10 years in wedding business, she has reached many heights. During its existence the brand has significantly changed, evolved and supplemented with a gorgeous evening line. This new collection, titled “I’m different”, was a very bold move for Yusupova — but then again, she was never scared to make bold moves.
Here we had a beautiful evening/wedding collection, almost completely see-through and ephemeral. Beautifully sewn dresses of smoky grey and violet, coal black and cobalt blue, made to perfection with low cuts and feather accessories.
A gorgeous final bridal gown was finally shown, complete with a fairy-tale like wispy shawl.
An amazing presentation from the true mistress of Russian bridalwear.
Olga Yakubovich has been making what is essentially the perfect little black dress for years now. Her creations are, all at the same time, feminine and gothic, classic and sexual, dark and glamorous.
This new collection is far more sensuous than its predecessor, with more shoulder and decolletage showing, and many dresses in the collection being sleeveless altogether.
The witchy atmosphere of the brand remained, with expertly-crafted feathered fascinators and accessories such as the little black teddy bears some models carried.
The Witches of Eastwick, Chilling Adventures of Sabrina and American Horror Story were all felt as direct influences — stylish little black polka dot dresses, adorable sweaters with a white bat pattern and wide-brimmed hats.
This was Summer Goth — a couple of looks could be even classified as beachwear, from an episode when Morticia Addams went to the beach perhaps?
A final walkthrough made clear — the high-concept of the brand was still present. Models walked out in AHS: Cult-like masks and a ghostly voice stated, that the collection is an initiation ritual into an entirely new reality. Let’s hope this brand never changes what it does — because it does it so very well.
Uvarov is one of the most promising young Russian designers of our age.
The starting point for the creation of RomaUvarovDesigns new collection was his enthusiasm for vintage markets. The designer avidly collects artefacts and antiques from all over the world. In one of such markets, his fancy was caught by a series of photographs of Russian families at a table, feasting. The designer started to study history, search the markets for artefacts and attributes that were consistent with the tradition of Soviet celebratory banquets, and review photos and materials from that era. Roman succeeded in combining the photographs he had found and making a single panorama of all images where the same people are featured. The core of the collection included cotton trench dresses, knitted blazers, skirts and blouses, raincoats, monochromatic boiler suits, combination long shirts, corduroy jerseys and other items. The collection is full of designer fabrics and prints, some of them made using the method of large-format printing of feast scenes, and portraying Soviet everyday life and atmosphere; traditional chequered oilcloth, which was used in the USSR, plus items and artefacts of that era.
Artefacts of a bygone era were included as accessories — plates with printed photographs of loved ones transformed into handbags, while deconstructed aluminium spoons were used as earrings, necklaces and belt embellishments. Uvarov is a master of print styling and this collection was no different — in fact many prints (floral, commercial, whimsically Soviet) were often all used together, in a patchwork manner. Hats, earrings and oversized bags made out of “kleenka” (a Soviet type of one-sided waterproofed tablecloth, usually in a tartan pattern) were also present in this nostalgic collection. Uvarov might be young, but he has the understanding of a long-bygone era — a boy carrying a giant boiled ham and a girl dressed as a Soviet pack of salt — I mean, where else can you see something like that?
Gulyaev, whose fashion house was founded in 2009, has traditionally closed every season of MBFW Russia, and has never been a stranger to controversy. His early collections were worn by Kanye, Whitney Houston and Sharon Stone, while his latter work — still fully produced in Saint Petersburg — continues to gather attention both in Russia and abroad.
This new collection was almost a tribute to Gulyaev himself — a wild and funky streetwear fare, coats with the designers stylized face on them, puffer jackets and beanie hats (of course, with the signature GULYAI slogan) and a wide range of accessories — belt bags in bright neon orange, tracksuit pants and cylindrical backpacks and gym bags in a green/orange combo.
The skirts, the vests, the hoodies — all were created especially to dazzle, wow and astonish. Some models wore oversize puffy hats pained in all colors of the rainbow, while others sported neon yellow lining on their oversize techwear-y coats.
All came out with cardboard masks of Gulyaev’s favourite patrons from the world of Russian stage and screen — Olga Buzova, Filipp Kirkorov and many others. Giant furry hoods, silvery tops and wild headpieces debuted in the latter part of the collection, to Kirkorov’s own great hit “Tsvet nastroenia siniy”. Finally, to the music of Alla Pugacheva, Gulyaev himself appeared, to thunderous applause and rain of confetti — a triumphant ending to this fashion season and a great statement to his own talent!
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/Mu6OPczhN1wuFw MUSIC SETS
The multi-instrumentalist duo brought an excellent set of cover versions of classic tracks on trombone and other classical instruments.
An extremely popular DJ duo from Moscow, these two pros have turned the entire floor of MBFW Russia into a dancehall with their electrifying beats and good vibes. DJ Sherry Brown and DJ Pasha Lee have both been a mainstay in Moscow nightlife, and seeing them bring their talent to this fashion week was a true delight.
A rap and r’n’b artist who’s gained a wild amount of popularity recently, Kacher brought a trio of his best hits, including “Sad dance”, to a great reaction from the audience.
BEHIND THE SCENES: yadi.sk/d/nlpeS_lI7hnfeA
CATWALK VIDEO: yadi.sk/d/3fEi9Of6D2p-4Q
POP-UP SHOP yadi.sk/d/AjLwnO7QUYID0A
Mercedes-Benz is the leading partner of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.
Partners of MBFW Russia include: glo (Official partner), Mary Kay (Official Makeup Partner and provider), MONÉ PROFESSIONAL(Official stylist), DHL (Official logistics partner), Region of Madrid Spain (Official destination), Metropol (Official hotel), Laska (Official partner).
You can watch any of our upcoming shows via live feed on Vogue.ru.
Additional information is available through the ARTEFACT GROUP Agency