MBFW RUSSIA 16 October, day 2

Day 2, 16th of October

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
15th — 19th of October, 2019
Day 2, 16th of October
MUSIC SET | LYUSYA CHEBOTINA   yadi.sk/d/VUj83UwAEg0R1g
MUSIC SET | ANDY DARLING   yadi.sk/d/5eL65HXtFFII4A

STREETSTYLE yadi.sk/d/w76s5EjlUNrJDw
BEHIND THE SCENES: yadi.sk/d/6a1ijmEuhToSQg
GUESTS: yadi.sk/d/i_L6HH1QO0fLSQ
 
POP-UP SHOP yadi.sk/d/AnTJirCtzxMtJQ
 
Day two of this season’s fashion week saw four foreign collections, all very pret-a-porter and conceptual. Beyond that we saw a new collection from Daniil Kostyshin and BAKHTIN, fashion innovators in their own rights, making this a great day for the young and bold in fashion.
PRANKERS (South Korea)
The PRANKERS brand was established in 2016. Presentation of their new collection was a real disco – young models partied hard at the catwalk to dynamic pop beats. The designer complemented their caps with asymmetrically cut clothes decorated with hefty sequins and net draperies. The youngest fashionmongers appeared at the catwalk in bouffant skirts with lots of tinsels, and older girls demonstrated a more somber color pallet, A-silhouette and oversize skirts with printed inserts. Although the clothing had many elements, the design was intended to create a shiny and festive atmosphere, and another issue of concern was comfort.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/cguqkQLEc_J3xA
 
KATERINA KOSHKINA
The collection by KATERINA KOSHKINA takes us to mysterious unearthly worlds, full of the cosmic-Odyssey-of-the-future spirit. Much leather and latex, glossy fabrics, mini and ultra maxi, as if competing in popularity, as well as glittering textiles and bright colors from fatal red to pompous yellow and black. The key highlight of the collection were accessories: massive chains, bracelets and carnival masks as if taking us to the nearest future, letting us go beyond the permitted limits.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/Sr3q-oVJ-srCwg
 
PRESENTATION | NOT TODAY
For the designer of the NOT TODAY brand, the trends of local fashion are interrelated and looped in a single system. That’s why the collection features the spirit of the 80s: jackets with massive shoulders, volatile dresses, variations on sportive coats. The designer speculates on internal uncertainty felt by a person that is ready for something, but doesn’t see what is coming yet. Lilac and light blue, and minor shiny highlights help to show that state. At the same time, the brand boldly takes on the trends of the next season, and showcases a classical suit with Bermuda shorts instead of pants, a light lilac dress in the undergarment style, and paired shirts made of various fabrics.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/JL-SoXnz5zfVGw
 
GLOBAL TALENTS: ALVARO MARS (Spain)
The Barcelona-based designer, a graduate of University Of Westminster is no newcomer to the art of shock and glamor, and this latest offering from him, is great proof of his conceptual talent.
Set to the classic Habanera, the Haus of Mars was the first course of the day. An avant-garde collection of luscious patterned fabrics, arranged into genderless silhouettes — little jackets and vests, one-piece suits with humongous sleeves hanging below the knees and multi-layered coats, all accompanied with elegant cotton hoods and full-face veils.
A deep maroon seemed to be the designer’s choice for this collection, as many elements were created using this color, such as the tights and shoes.
Unconventional tailoring created an almost sculptural complexity in the garments, which ranged from trench coats with plastic mannequin breastplates all the way to mountains of fabric layered in a dome formation on top of one another and a gigantic belt that a model dragged behind her as a sort of accessory. Many one-piece suits reminded one of classic Spanish Teatro de la Comedia, with harlequin motifs throughout. Other looks sported pillows sewn directly into the fabric and complex pockets coupled with velvety shorts.
A tremendous bridal gown, worn by a male model and made completely out of crimson velvet cushions, finished off this brave and daring collection of garments for a true fashion rebel. glo brand, supporting Global Talents.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/9f9ZtgeK5uVRgw
AFW presents (Azerbaijan)
AYNOOR | Leya Couture | SHAN Couture |Nomad Homme+
AYNOOR
Every look features famous polka dot, which is interpreted anew through efforts of the designers. This is not some black dots anymore – this is a kind of an art installation in the form of round cuts that resemble the long-established pattern. This collection offers many diverse looks, from slim-cut everyday dresses to multilevel sophisticated suits and casual combinations that would suit into a strong woman’s wardrobe. Every look is based on multilevel structures made with sophisticated draperies and multiple ruches. Waists accentuated with bows or double encrusted belts made the looks of the new Spring-Summer collection more feminine.
 Leya Couture
The show was opened by a model wearing a floor-long dress of tender pink, decorated with feathers, beads, and crystals. Even with this first appearance, the audience understood that the entire show will feature the best evocation of haute couture clothing with all the rigorous attention to details and finest elements. Lightest materials and classical silhouettes accentuating smooth body outlines, sophisticated draperies, abundance of intricate decorations, corset inserts and semi-transparent sexual pieces laconically complemented ultra-femininity and edginess. It was quite obvious that every look was rather tempting, featuring either high cuts or deep decolletes, or naked shoulders.
 SHAN
A game of shapes and materials became a point of departure in the Spring-Summer 2020 collection by SHAN. Geometric oval- and circle-shaped cuts on the tops, combinations of transparent materials and glitter with tender lace and masculine silhouettes – the game of contrasts was featured in every look. Overalls, cocktail dresses, jackets and evening floor-long gowns that would look great at red carpet – all of those were laconically entwined with couture  techniques, the key of which were lacework, abundant bead decoration, and enormous bows accentuating waist lines. A total absence of accessories and decorations facilitated high focus on the most minute details of every look.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/9ZNr6gxyzrP3lw
GLOBAL TALENTS: svoboda ravenstvo bratstvo (France)
Svoboda, ravenstvo, bratstvo (or «liberty, equality, fraternity», the national motto of France) presented a practical and elegant menswear and womenswear collection, all emblazoned with the lettering for their brand in cyrillic (СРБ).
The pieces included olympic-style windbreakers and tracksuits, varsity jackets and tops, fleece trousers — all covered in elaborate geometric patterns and logos, and utilizing bright neon orange and yellow, set against deep blues.
The Franco-Russian brand also included many woolen garments in their collection, all set against a backdrop of their new lookbook video — comfy fluffy sweaters that are just right for the Winter months. The collection had a nostalgic feel to it, with many pieces bringing us back to Soviet Olympic victories and records — many of the varsity jackets used the cyrillic lettering to create patterns reminding us of the Soviet red flag, while others were a fresh take on a classic sportswear silhouette — for example, some of the tracksuit bottoms featured detailing taken from slavic folklore patterning, the complicated “vyaz” pattern taken from medieval Russian folk art (вязь).
The same crisscross pattern could be found in the latter part of the collection, which strayed more towards practical and casual evening wear. Patterned trousers, light sweatshirts, all-black tops and feminine tailored jackets that showed a very deep decolletage were all present. This is a full lifestyle collection, with Svoboda, ravenstvo, bratstvo creating a look for any occasion — from a ski resort in the French alps to a cozy evening in a Moscow apartment party and all the way to an evening night out in a trendy restaurant. glo brand, supporting Global Talents.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/Qg9yGVh2KVCfJw
 
Sardinia Glam (Italy)
A varied offering of seven collections from Sardinia-based designers — special guests to this truly international and eclectic fashion week. Sardinia itself was a special guest to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia this year, with an exclusive corner within the Manezh space devoted to the Italian island, its culture, crafts, cuisine, cinema and history, as well as featuring special travel opportunities for the guests.
Paola Sailis
A series of beautiful Italian kaftans and dresses, most with a strong Russian influence — head scarves, shawls, vests and red lace underskirts. All this created a space somewhere in between Russia and Italy, a passionate dream of a long-forgotten romantic image of a femme fatale.
Atelier Marinella Staico
Deep blue velvet tops, accompanied by long, flowing black skirts — Italian elegance at its finest — military coats and pleated skirts of deep crimson and bronze, grand evening gowns in earthy tones — a mysterious and romantic evening wear collection for the most daring of socialites.
Roberto Bortolussi
Both film noir — with its dramatic veils and headpieces — the Middle East — with its luxurious fabrics and silhouetting — and the art of theatre had their hand at influencing this collection, which featured tulle tobes of light violet worn over structured golden dresses — some very tailored and fine, others grand, like a chestplate.
Perfect for visiting an opera house and fitting for both the performers and the guests.
Dina Pinchuk
Simple and classic summer dresses, all made of fine shimmery silk with either applique, crochet or sewing work, in luxury colors — deep crimson, white gold and candy violet.
Perfect for horse race outings and Summer picnics with a glamorous spin, a Summer wedding or simply a glorious day out in the sun.
De.Ma creazioni
A masterful and structured collection of shiny silver and black tops and vast skirts and palazzo pants. Accessorized with simple statement necklaces. The latter part of the collection featured several evening gowns with flowery hemming, peach accents working well with the black tulle.
Natali
A gothic and glamorous collection of grand evening wear, featuring embroidered gowns set with crystals and stones, large statement earrings, flowery headbands and dresses of pink and blue tulle for any momentous occasion.
Luca Cosseddu
A collection of jewelry accompanying the previous collection — structured necklaces, large rings, most in pink gold and set with magnificent stones.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/v1NLh-b5pZGpCA 
GLOBAL TALENTS: Femme de Mars (Belgium)
Remember the old adage about women being from Venus? Well this Belgian brand, considering itself to be a part of “pret-a-couture”, decided to break this cliche as it presented this evening a truly spectacular collection in deep tones of black and red, for an aggressive and powerful female — Mars being the planet of power, war and fury, after all.
Armored to the teeth in their sparkling veils of precious stones and metals, as well as glittering septum rings with chains — bringing to mind the traditional piercings of Indian women — the signature accessories of this collection — the models looked like time travellers from outside of our own cultural memory.
The garments ranged from long, flowing dresses of dark crimson and pure white linen to snazzy suits of sandy tones featuring unconventional tailoring, padded shoulders and tartan elements on the sleeves and cuffs.
The skirts accompanying some of the more formal garments were of similar fare — unconventional cut showing a lot of leg and an earthy palette. The collection also featured an assortment of outerwear for a true “alpha female” — a constant motif in Femme De Mars creations — most of which were decorated with silver chains, tassels and fringe.
Half-masques of aquamarine went well with bridal-style gown in the same color, while Moroccan-style sarafans showed a beautiful sense for shaping and silhouetting. The Northern African motifs continued with the inclusion of silk veils draped over fez-style hats.
Finishing up the show was a sexy number in black lingerie covered only with a tulle negligee and yet another silver face veil and an entire belly-dancing outfit of silver and gemstones — right out of a Game of Thrones episode.glo brand, supporting Global Talents.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/KHCMynb7SH5RoQ 
BÁKHTIN
The young designer is a constant staple of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. His creations are always guaranteed to provoke, intrigue and delight, especially for the younger guests of this event.
This time he gave us a very varied assortment of looks, most of them inspired by his childhood in 90’s Russia.
The show started off with several daring suits, some featuring tailored cuts to reveal inner thighs and stomach, others in fire-red leather.
Much of what followed was playing with patterning and design — dresses sporting a pattern from old movies or deconstructed to hang off the skirt by a zipper.
One raincoat featured designs based on the covers of “COOL Magazine”, a Russian youth culture publication from the early 90’s. Others showed pages of Chinese newspapers as patterning, or had bold separation of black and white on the pockets and asymmetric cuts to the shoulder line.
Leather apron-like skirts were shown for men, while women got a bridal dress of white patterned silk.
Overall, an understated yet incredibly stylish collection in classic tones of red, black and white.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/npcLFCARXVtSMQ
 JULIA DALAKIAN
HUMAN NATURE by Julia Dalakian was a true triumph of femininity. The brand of the same name takes part in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia on a regular basis. In the new Spring-Summer 2020 season, the designer still prefers highlighted sexuality and elegance. The game of cuts, color combinations and textures sets the mood. Such clothes will perfectly fit into any wardrobe. Overalls with extreme decolletes along with cardigans of all the lengths and shapes are good for both business meetings and society balls. Natural silk, organza, and suiting cloth – all of these favorably highlights body advantages. Varied color pallet, all the possible contrasting combinations, polka dot and stripes will suit women of any age. Combinations of black and yellow, gold and silver, pink and red are piquant and at the same time laconic. Skirts and tops are decorated with fringes and volants. Models wear as natural makeup as possible, and  neat hairstyles, either smooth hair brushed back or ponytails. Voluminosity facilitated by flying silhouettes, bead embroidery and sportive elements combines comfort with femininity. The HUMAN NATURE collection will suit a modern dynamic woman that loves beauty and appreciates comfort.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/Q9jG-DW3ondK_w
 PRESENTATION | ARUT MSCW
Neon, famous pop beats, and soft red light – this is how the audience was greeted at the presentation by ARUT MSCW. The designer adhered to the key message of the brand – Discotheque couture, and created new looks in keeping with the best traditions of the 50s. Elegant silhouettes, Hollywood curls, satin draperies and velvet gloves created the spirit of the mid 20th century. Therewith, all the looks were quite remarkable – from bold pieces with latex elements to bright ones made of special fabric, shining like a disco ball. This collection had something to offer for any party – a floor-long dress, a pants suit, or mini.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/lmdZSBEqJTAxMQ
 
DANIIL KOSTYSHIN
Starting the final show of the night off with a childhood video from his own personal archive, Daniil, a student of Moscow’s Higher School of Economics’ design faculty, presented his collection, titled “21”.
The trip to childhood continued on the runway itself, with both male and female models sporting garments that strongly remind one of the streetwear in the last years of the 20th century — t-shirts, raincoats, shorts and sweatshirts.
Simple, endearing designs — multicolored horizontal striping, charming cartoon characters, basketballs and sewn-on heart patches — appeared in almost every look. When a designer undertakes a personal collection like this, it’s always fascinating to know where they get their inspiration from and for Kostyshin it was obviously the experience of growing up in the early years of Russian capitalist boom, when kids would be dressed very much like their American counterparts but still in a very thrifty and practical fashion.
Spandex leggings, adidas-imitation tracksuit jackets, oversized puffer coats (bought “to grow into” — the Soviet philosophy of buying coats a slightly bigger size so that the child can wear them through several seasons) all accompanied by photographs shown onscreen from the designer’s childhood — with him wearing a miniature version of the garment on the runway.
21 as a finale to a life lived around clothing, and an intimate relationship to that clothing, was a beautiful ending to an eclectic and charming day of shows here at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/LRoThpPyIENujQ
 
The title partner of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia is Mercedes-Benz.

MBFW Russia partners: Aizel.ru (Official Partner), glo (Official Partner), Mary Kay (Official Make-Up Artist), MONÉ PROFESSIONAL (Official Style Artist), DHL (Official Logistics Partner), Sardinia (Official Partner), Metropol (Official Hotel).
 
For more information, please, refer to:
Artefact Agency
E-mail: pressa@artefact.ru