Day 3, 17th of October
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia
15th — 19th of October, 2019
Day 3, 17th of October
MUSIC SET |MRID yadi.sk/d/XExB6dd62q722w
MUSIC SET |Cream Soda yadi.sk/d/gfWRMkWcziOcAA
BEHIND THE SCENES yadi.sk/d/OTokiwHTIaLjVA
POP-UP SHOP yadi.sk/d/AnTJirCtzxMtJQ
Day three of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, and the halfway point presented to us a great variety of looks and collections, including German, Swedish, UAE and Estonian brands, a tremendous showcase from the esteemed National Design Institute and collections from such well-known Russian brands as Yasya Minochkina and the team behind N. LEGENDA.
ViViMaison | KUDRINA | LYALYA| SUMARASM| PopovFur | Volskaya atelier
This collaborative show included presentations by ViVi Maison, KUDRINA, LYALYA, SUMARASM, PopovFur, and Volskaya atelier. It started with an art performance hepled the audience to fill the spirit thanks to sound and semi-darkness.
The show started with a video presentation, setting a certain mood. The basic fabric of the collection was tweed, which was used in gowns, coats, and jackets. The designers continued their issue of a strong woman: gowns with excessive shoulder line, masculine loose cut suits, entwining with feminine silhouettes, sparkling materials and deep decolletes. The designers played on contrast, combining jackets with massive footwear, and male jackets – with light dresses.
This collection, specially made for teens, included all the key trends of the modern generation. Tops, leggings, massive rough boots, hoodies, long remarkable socks, and bright neon colors – everything that millennials love found reflection in the looks by KUDRINA. Special focus was on outer garments: at the catwalk we saw trenches and coats with various statement letterings like Sorry I’m bad. Neon cords referred to working uniform.
Spring-Summer 2020 collection by LYALYA featured a perfect school uniform, inspired by the grunge aesthetics. Loose silhouettes, chains, leather, skinny silhouettes, and favorite black – it must be hard to send a child in such a uniform to school, but this is how the designers see the school fashion of the nearest future. The designers recommend boys to take a closer look on classic suits or unconventional solutions like a snow-white shirt with a semivest. In the end of the show, the sports style returned, materialized in hoodies, sportive pants, and suits.
The show was opened by a model wearing a black dress, complimented with a turban, an ultra-fashionable accessory of the current season. The entire collection was a tribute to evening fashion haute couture: transparent inserts, floating fabrics creating an illusion of movement, corsets, sophisticated decorations, bows on shoulders, and lace. Designers didn’t experiment with colors, keeping to the classics – black and white that in the end of the show were sometimes interlaced with violet and dark green. Total white and total black looks turned out to be especially popular.
In the new season, the designers suggested wearing furs with any clothes: jeans, pants, skirts, gowns, and even leopard prints. Special focus was on silhouettes: next spring, they are going to become oversized, although with an accentuated waist. Logomania, bright inserts, colorful highlights – all of those make looks from the new collection by Popov Fur remarkable. During the show, a fur vest went through a transformation: now it is midi-long and bright colored.
Most of the looks featured leather. The designers placed stakes on asymmetric cuts, varnished gloss, accentuated shoulders, and combinations of incompatible elements. Thus, one look could include feathers and metallic fabrics, or feathers and leather. The collection’s pallet was dark with prevailing ochre and black.
The collective show was participated by models of elegant age. PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/bh9SaBW0rllipQ
TATA POLINA & DIMA KAMMA
The designers of TATA POLINA & DIMA KAMMA called their new collection Punk Alchemy, as they had found inspiration in the fashion of musical subcultures. The collection was bold and provocative: leather bra, metal fittings, accentuated waists. Polina and Dima Tatarenko showed how rock- and punk- cultures can be used in the today’s life. Any look can be used in everyday life – for instance, a pants suit with brick and mustard rhombs, a grey maxi dress with shoulder belts, or a milk-white vest with structured sleeves and black rivets.
The collective show was participated by models of elegant age.
PRESENTATION | ASADULLINA
ASADULLINA is a gender neutral clothing brand inspired by the futuristic concept. Their collection Last Outbreak was presented at MBFW Russia in collaboration with BodyX, underwear brand, and dedicated to the issue of coral disappearing. During the performance, we saw many ruffles, transparent and holographic fabrics, glitter, and tinsels. The models presented a complete dancing performance, featuring the sequence, the development, and the culmination. Their images varied from man’s sportive suits to tight overalls to woman’s slim-fit light dresses and mantles with asymmetric lower hems and oversize jackets. All this music stage performance resembled the true under-water life and the last outbreaks of corals before they extinct forever. Main colors of the collection were white, grey, blue, violet and scarlet.
Te Amo Couture
The Te Amo Couture brand makes elegant evening suits, great for a theater or a restaurant, as well as for special occasions. The new collection is full of the Oriental spirit. Dark and shiny like a starry sky; tender and decorated with feathers; featuring animalistic prints – there were gowns to suit any taste. Special focus was on details: velvet belts, long sleeves, glass beads, and sequins. The show was closed with a wedding dress, featuring a voluminous skirt and transparent embroidered sleeves.
GLOBAL TALENTS: SOJI SOLARIN (Germany)
8 Fashion Houses support the trend to elegant age models and SOJI SOLARIN is among them. German designer SOJI SOLARIN presented his Negro Cowboy collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. Models of diverse race walked the runway featuring variations of clothing of dark-skinned cowboys: leather vests, two-layered jeans and tie-dye total looks. The entire collection was performed in reserved natural colors — white, beige and brown while red was a bright highlight in this color array. Among the accessories were very trendy bucket hats made in different hues. Many garments featured the name of the collection along with other intricate details such as patch pockets and cut-aways in the most daring spots. Designer as well as many others turned to oversize, Bermudashorts and transparent fabrics that looked particularly gorgeous. glo brand, supporting Global Talents. The show was participated by models of elegant age.
National Design Institute Fashion Show
This collective show of the university, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year, was a great pleasure to see, as the students presented competent, street-ready looks on par with many of the fashions we saw in Milan and Berlin this year.
As a result of this being a collaborative work by many students of the school, we saw a great variety of looks. Starting out with outfits in deep blue and purple, of velvet and thick cotton, draped with lighter fabrics such as silk, and muslin in a similar color palette. The silhouettes were left intentionally free and loose, with many garments seemingly perfect for a bohemian lifestyle of poet or painter.
Following this we got several all-black looks in a similar cut and silhouette. After this we got another sub-collection, with models in crocheted balaclavas in light yellow, blue, aquamarine and green exhibiting sheer woolen garments to tone, almost ephemeral and spidersilk-like.
Third part of the collection was dominated by strong silhouettes in grey-and-blue outerwear, with slogans proudly displayed in the stitching and applique work, most of them concerning climate change — the hot topic amongst the young generation of Russian designers. These large coats, sweatshirts and trenches seemed perfect for a protest.
A more techwear-oriented collection followed, with black and grey menswear (hoodies, sweatshirts and tracksuits) presented in thick cotton, with bold lettering bringing to mind the current streetwear trends immediately.
GLOBAL TALENTS: MLTV CLOTHING (Sweden)
Collection of the Swedish brand MLTV CLOTHING featured composed classic colors: white, beige and black ruled the catwalk. Neck shawls perfectly matching the outwear added a little charm to the garments together with modest floral patches. Despite the composure, provocation also found space in the collection: certain models walked the runway wearing nothing but shirts or items fixed to the body. Male models wore skirts and transparent organza items. Designer of the brand plays with the shapes showing intentionally torn shirts and pants or patch pockets enlarged to the bag size. Outwear featured basic maxi coat with zippers to make it shorter along with oversize items. Accessories of the collection such as double bags and clutches with coarse seams are certainly worth mentioning, they looked simple but stunning. glo brand, supporting Global Talents.
HUMARIFF (Russia — UAE)
Humariff is a fashion couture house, especially known for its luxurious evening gowns and wedding dress. It was founded in 2013 by the designer Tamam Humariff. Initially, production was situated in the UAE, but today her collection is entirely produced in Russia. Tamam Humariff grew up in Dagestan, Russia. Since childhood, the young designer always dreamt of escaping to a world of fantasy. Tamam started sketching dresses at the age of fourteen. But Tamam's family did not take her interest seriously. Fortunately, with the support of her husband, she found a great deal of success in Dubai, specifically with her acclaimed wedding dresses.
In 2016 she opened two boutiques in Moscow and Baku.
Today Tamam has shown us a luxurious bridal and evening wear collection of black and white, with many of the silhouettes inspired by her native Dagestan. Accessorized with simple yet elegant jewelry, the dresses, especially those benefiting from heavy silver fringing, looked instantly classic. Several sequined pieces of dark blue, jade and red were also seen, combining a sharp silhouette with heavy embellishments on the fabric itself — one aquamarine dress included a statement chest piece of golden fabric, another combined a lacey red fabric with a nude tone, a third was sewn with a pattern of a flowering cherry tree, yet another brought to mind the genius of Fritz Lang’s Metropolis with its geometric cuts and silver, shimmering fabric.
The latter part of the show was completely devoted to bridal gowns, all fairytale and bright, yet with a keen eye towards traditionalism. Lace sleeves and bodices, expertly created to resemble throngs of white roses as if clinging directly to the skin, were a pleasure to see done so well.
Other gowns included thick, glimmering netting on the bodice and sequined veils, while some featured wing-like attachments of pleated fabric on the shoulder of the garment.
Many of the gowns looked truly grand — enormous tails of extremely detailed fabric and dainty, meringue-like chest pieces, as if straight from Russian ballet. The finale featured a Madonna-like dress of vast tulle layers, a jeweled veil and a complex ornate bodice.
Here was a true bridal collection — with all the grandeur, traditionalism and attention to the smallest details.
DIANA ARNO (Estonia)
The Estonian beauty queen and one of the most popular designers in the country presented a new collection targeted towards stylish outerwear in metallic and earthy tones.
In her own words, “All of my collections offer a dose of femininity and romantic vibes that are so essential for any woman. We always find a way to melt some ruffles or lace into simple silhouettes and lift the minimalist designs to the next level with interesting details and feminine elements.”
Arno’s philosophy strays towards the pillars of 20th century European fall fashion — beautiful trench coats of ashy grey, rain jackets of dirty beige, flimsy summer dresses of muted blues and reds. Very much in the style of Godard and William Klein, the collection decided to do justice to outerwear that can also be sexy — oversized suits in cloudy blue, little coats in linen-white, pleated dresses of pastel violet. Beautiful grey shirts with sharp lines on the collars and breast pockets as well as metallic sand-colored dresses and coats created an overall subdued yet somehow also very human and gentle overtone.
Accessorized with large, brass jewelry that accentuated the simple refinement of this collection, the models walked straight out of an avant-garde French movie — but one closer to the 80’s rather than the 60’s. Other accessories included white knee-high leather boots or heels, simple hoop earrings and retro eyewear. Cinematic, minimalist and tastefully styled and created, any piece from this collection would look beautiful in a trip to a wintery beach somewhere in Europe for a dramatic breakup.
PRESENTATION | Robot Fedor Style by Alpha Robotics Venture
In the beginning of the show, the audience was told a story of life in space away from the planet Earth and a space ship launching. Then, they were presented clothes that would be great for both alien existence and rather peaceful life on the Earth. Hoodies of white and black, leather tight pants, sporty relaxed models, mini skirts of transparent fabric, damaged jeans, and T-shirts that everybody loves. Sometimes, you would think that the designers took us not to the world of the future, but to some real place, where people go on with their everyday life. Utilitarian color pallet featured black, white, and dark green colors.
Her debut was assured and her mix of evening-ready glamour with a relaxed spirit soon had many fans. Vogue Italia flagged Minochkina as one to watch, and she was picked up by Fashion Scout, the new-talent initiative in London, where she showed for four seasons.
This new collection by the designer started off with several pastel-toned mini dresses, all tastefully gathered at the hips and back and textured with ruffs and ruching.
Several small wispy summery dresses followed, some sheer and layered, other created from lightest tulle, but all playing with the texture of the fabric itself, making it work for the garment by adding sequins, abstract strips of glossy fabric or creating a stunning visual effect by texturing the outer layer of the dress while leaving the lower layer of velvety fabric completely matte.
The final parts of the collection dived headfirst into the sexy mind of Minochkina, with revealing dresses of hot red, evening gowns of silvery blue and finishing off with a beautiful long gown of sunny yellow, perfect for a wedding.
Many looks were very revealing, using sheer fabric to cling to the models bodies, while other used a scaly fabric to create a golden reptile-skin effect, and some used a unique sequin technique of applying almost droplet-like embellishments onto a sheer fabric, creating a “wet look”, but all had things in common — playful, sexy and charming, this was a collection that brimmed with youth and virility.
The brand N. LEGENDA / DESIGNER NIKOLAY LEGENDA was established in September 2012 by Olga Kapitonova – the graduate and receiver of a Master's degree from St. Petersburg State University’s industrial technology and design course. Among the die-hard fans of N.LEGENDA are the younger generation of artists and musicians, as well as Moscow’s creatives and luminaries.
Kapitonova presented a sharp and graphical collection for men and women — in fact, the garments were not gendered at all. Black tanktops under white puffer coats, neoprene sweatshirts, poncho-style sweaters — all with either black check pattern on white or white checks on black.
Long jackets in a similar pattern were presented, as well as silver-grey coats and iridescent rainbow-colored dresses and tracksuit-style culottes with cardigans and jackets. This metallic rainbow pattern was especially striking in this collection, glistening like crude oil.
The metallic trend continued with several oversize parkas and trenches of metallic blood-red and electric aqua.
A truly electrifying collection for the young and old but bold culminated this day of shows and the halfway point of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. The show was participated by models of elegant age.
The title partner of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia is Mercedes-Benz.
MBFW Russia partners: Aizel.ru (Official Partner), glo (Official Partner), Mary Kay (Official Make-Up Artist), MONÉ PROFESSIONAL (Official Style Artist), DHL (Official Logistics Partner), Sardinia (Official Partner), Metropol (Official Hotel).
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