FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia15th — 19th of October, 2019 Day 4, 18th of October
MUSIC SET |DJ GROOVE yadi.sk/d/RSUu8ncydydVgg MUSIC SET |SABI MISS + MANRO yadi.sk/d/Wj0xzNMW9Mq4dA STREETSTYLE yadi.sk/d/m1WcgBIh627YvA BEHIND THE SCENES yadi.sk/d/UJYDcDPTmzusRQ GUESTS yadi.sk/d/gsb8P028mkmbwgVIDEO yadi.sk/d/v_2tO6qy-SAbGA POP-UP SHOP yadi.sk/d/AnTJirCtzxMtJQ
Day four of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia brought us collections from the UK and US, as well as younger designers like ZA_ZA and MAD DAISY MOSCOW, with the storied brand PIROSMANI rounding up the roster for a perfect mix of avant-garde and classical fashion. FashionTime Designers:
AnPer | SAID SHAH | Kukla Tanya | Ephemerida DK
On October 18, once again the collective show by FashionTime Designers took place. This autumn, the guests of the show were offered collections by four brands.
Designer Anton Permyakov, graduate of the Slava Zaitsev Fashion Lab and founder of the AnPer brand, showcased both looks for adults and teenagers. To the famous tune from the Matrix movie, models in suits with wide sculptural sleeves came out to the catwalk, wearing voluminous skirts and sweatshirts. Every Anton’s work has special elegant style, and this new collection isn’t an exclusion.
The SAID SHAH brand was founded by Dagestanian designer Saida Adamova. This season, she presented the Silk Way collection. Elegant Oriental clothes made of silk with hand-made ethnic-style bijouterie and embroidery with natural stones took the audience to a Dagestan long-gone, where the silk way once used to be. Every look was completed with unique diadems, worn by both established and very young models.
Designer and TV presenter Tanya Tuzova, also known as the Russian Barbie, presented a collection of the Kukla Tanya brand. Her models were fair-haired girls and young ladies that appeared at the podium in magnificent full skirts. In their hands, they carried Barbie dolls from the designer’s private collection.
The Ephemerida DK brand presented a collection that brought together youth and wisdom, vision of the future and trust into the present, dynamicity and convenience, top quality and creation, eternity and memories. You can distinguish yourself by wearing black and white. Sportive twin-sets for men and women with unique prints will suit every figure type and person of any age.
Anastasia Polunina, designer of the brand, managed to found balance in combination of fashion and art. She stands for authenticity and considers fashion in the social context as a phenomena and a vehicle of expression through clothes. She sees clothes as a casing of codes that help people to see us as we are.
In her new collection, she engages people to express themselves, praising both the outer and the inner beauty. All her looks are united by the subject of punk rock: abundance of black, asymmetric zip jackets, tartan and denim. The favorite combination of this subculture – pink and black – was reconsidered by the designer: a two-colored shirt was presented worn as a trench over a coat. Despite the variety of sport chick clothes, the collection wasn’t lacking some femininity: a tight black leather overall worn atop a thick hoodie looked bold and provocative.
PRESENTATION | SNIFF
This show by Elizaveta Davydova sarted with an interactive performance. All the guests were offered to sing the Om Mantra with the actors. Then, in a cube lit by lamps dancers performed a soulful dance, and only after that the show itself started. To melodic techno music, models entered the catwalk. The FUTURA Collection was made by the designer in collaboration with famous Instagram blogger Diana Melison and rapper Cherocky, featuring the style of the rave culture, the new generation underground, the modern hip-hop culture, and the street fashion.
GLOBAL TALENTS: LINUS LEONARDSSON (UK)
Hailing from Stockholm but currently based in London, Linus Leonardsson is a Master graduate from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. In his own words, his work centers around the combination of fun and glamour with important social issues — first and foremost the demolition of gender expectations within fashion, and a push towards a fully sustainable industry.
Leonardsson’s new and completely gendeless collection was an energetic start to the day’s shows — an assortment of practical yet colorful fall outerwear looks.
Glittery metallic coats and dresses, coupled with cozy-looking capes and trousers, all with bright, flowery prints. Babushka headscarves showed his appreciation for Russian style, while acid-green tank tops and screaming pink dresses of metallic fabric hinted towards a rave influence.
Accessorized with chunky heel boots and reflective eyewear, this all created the vibe of a folksy acid party, with crochet vests and stockings, wooly sleeveless jumpsuits and skirts, all very playful and always showing a lot of skin. Male models came out wearing metallic-pink dresses with exaggerated hips that brought to mind 17th century fashion, camp and glam rock.
Belt bags, long velvet gloves of bright violet, neckerchiefs in bright silver and pink. Fortunately, it all fit together very well, which was no small feat for such an eclectic and bright collection, and made these looks perfect for festivals, raves or outings with your most outrageous friends. glo brand, supporting Global Talents.
This menswear brand was founded in 2014, and has since carved out its place in the Russian fashion market with its use of minimalist design and expert tailoring. Functional yet romantic, their designs often feature a personal touch from their team — elements of kimono-like fabric sewn onto classical mens suits, for example.
This collection was no different, with the brand presenting a masculine and elegant number of looks with a strong resemblance to European mens fashion of the 70’s — oversize coats in warm colors, muted tartan pants and jackets, wide-brim hats and fisherman hoods, film cameras on leather straps around the neck as accessories.
Several unisex garments were also presented, with blousons and skirts in dark tan, silhouetted freely enough to suit both men and women. The majority of the collection, however, revolves around casual elegance — wide shorts and shirts in matching tones, asymmetrical cuts on outerwear with an eye towards comfort and caring less about what people will think of you. Innominate’s man can be summed up as an educated dreamer — someone who gets lost in books just as easily as he does in love. The Innominate girl is a true innocent romantic however — the most feminine parts of the collection were light and summery dresses and tops which would look great on a student trip to France.
MAD DAISY MOSCOW
The story behind the label, founded by Margarita Fedoseeva, goes back to 2017. At first, it was a pure footwear label, inspired by the «mismatched shoes» trend. Over time, however, their creative director has decided to focus on a wider product line adding apparel and accessories for women. Her new collection was created in collaborative partnership with the State Tretyakov Gallery to support women living with alopecia.
Starting the show off with a touching message from such woman was a great move on Fedoseeva’s part as it clearly showed the message for the collection — acceptance, understanding and beauty. The looks themselves were an elegant mix of terracotta and blues, yellows and violets, silvers and greys. Two-tone raincoats and free-flowing jumpsuits in gold and blue were also of note, most of them accessorized with a simple necklace featuring an abstract design of a field of daisies. Several garments featured the same daisy field motif, flowery and wild, and working well with the underlying tone of the fabric.
As models walked down the runway — most wearing a combination of one-piece pantsuits, palazzo trousers and shirts or long, flowing dresses of sapphire — many removed their wigs to reveal a completely shaven head, often painted in yellow and blue, bravely showing their acceptance of their condition.
An inspiring and important collection for a fearless and modern fashion-conscious woman.
EXPATS COLLECTIVE (USA – Russia)
EXPATS COLLECTIVE is an international collective, a collaborative effort between publisher and fashion editor Stephan Rabimov and designers Vasily Vein of San Francisco and Liliana Bahor and Ella Shadrunova of Vyborg, which is close to Saint-Petersburg and Finland.
The brand is the epitome of slow fashion, with every garment created individually and uniquely.
Their debut collection, Spring/Summer 2020, is inspired by Polenitsa (Slavic folklore warrior women-Valkyries), the Romanov dynasty (represented by golden badges and stars of military honor, as well as red ribbons cutting through an olive drab dress) and the October Communist Revolution (elements in striking crimson, military cut on many jumpsuits and jackets).
The color red, used sparingly but effectively, is a main leitmotif of the collection, showing up in wool, capes, dresses and accessories. The looks chosen are simply divine and very classic, draped dresses and shawls, capes and jackets, one-piece tracksuits and long, pleated skirts.
Much of the inner fabrics of the outfits were lined with red velvet.
All fabrics were shimmery and flowing, with velvet and shiny silk making an appearance.
The final parts of the collection were very “Red Riding Hood”, with large red hoods and oversized belt buckles on black leather coats.
A collection for the modern warrior valkyrie, bound for revenge against her enemies in dramatic and flawless outfits, this is definitely one of the highlights of this week — expect to see much more from this new brand.
PRESENTATION | OTOCYON
Presentation of the new collection by OTOCYON became a real performance: models were sitting on a large light pink piece of fabric, where sculptures of young artists were located along with textile abstractions and ceramic vases with burgundy calla lilies. All of the show was accompanied by a DJ, creating music with a special Playtronica device, connected to various objects. Lesya Rusakovich, the brand designer, offers to consider clothing as an object that should be contemplated and felt. Somber color pallet and soft silhouettes contributed into the necessary spirit. The new collection included dresses with balloon sleeves, minimalistic overcoats, and loose cut pants. The designer paid special attention to details: a creamy bow on the dress, thin white seams, elegant pleats on the fabric.
ZA_ZA is the brainchild of Alexandra Koryakina-Nikolaeva, who has been a staple here at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia since Spring 2018. Created by Yakutia native Alexandra Koryakina in 2011, ZA_ZA is notoriously avant-garde, stating its mission as “bringing something unexplainable to an explained world”.
For this collection, Koryakina-Nikoleva went all out, with animal masks, giant Z and A stuffed lettering for scarves and a somber, gothic tone. Couture sweatshirts featuring tiny prints of cartoon animals contrasted with giant tartan coats and patchwork longsleeves.
After that things moved into an even more macabre and dark territory, with models wearing animal face prosthetics coming out in plush and wool garments with all-over prints of human mouths, faces and hands, some scarves and accessories even being shaped to resemble a human arm. The rest was almost all-black, with long black coats, sweaters, dresses and trenches only rarely being contrasted with a wild pink or dirty-blue toned outfit.
A collection straight out of a Francis Bacon masterpiece and a perfect one for a dark and cold Winter.The show was participated by models of elegant age.
PHOTO:yadi.sk/d/EtTmOdrmWRGoKg RED SEPTEMBER
Inspired by industrial and architecture design, Red September was founded by designer Olga Vasyukova. Olga works in several fields: design, illustration, production, and photo shoots. The designer has a diploma from the Fashion Design department at Polimoda and her first showcases in Florence. She works on the concept behind each collection by focusing on a mix of forgotten, old school aesthetics and a single theme in modern art.
Today Red September gave us a practical and fresh collection of urban streetwear — mostly bomber jackets, tees, sweatpants and hoodies. While the palette remained consistently muted, sometimes the designs ventured into electric greys and violets, while the leather biker jackets were created from shocking pink.
The models (again wearing animal masks, this time — of the party variety), strutted their stuff in Red September’s signature looks (many emblazoned with the brand’s traditional bear logo) as well as some fresh designs in the latter part of the collection.
These included bags and coats made of inflated plastic pockets filled with white beads, deconstructed patchwork jean corsets, distressed maroon raincoats, motorcycle pants with padding on the knees, and heavy trenches of clear plastic scales.
The new collection by Elena Souproun was inspired by music from the Mood for Love movie by Kar-Wai Wong.
Whenever the musical accompaniment changed, the tones of the collection changed, too, and every melody made it more spicy and red-hot.
At first, the audience were presented bright splashes of fur, combined with light lacey linen-like gowns. Rich incrustation with jewelry and shiny inserts introduced notes of exclusive glamour. In the first block, Elena used dusty rose hues along with deep colors to introduce a special mood to every look of the new collection.
Basic fabrics that became the key ones – silk velvet, satin, taffeta, Rebrode and Chantilly lace. It is remarkable that the designer prefers the linen style, which she easily transforms into haute couture
by means of handmade embroidery, lots of beads, sequins, and lace. The show was participated by models of elegant age.
Pirosmani by Jenia Malygina is a well-known brand from St. Petersburg, creating garments since 1999. Their concept was always envoking dark, romantic influences, infusing them with goth elements, draping and exquisite abstract prints combined with oversized tailored pieces.
Every Pirosmani garment is essentially an art object, playing with textures of heavy leather and combining them with softer fabrics. This new collection is extremely dark and luscious. Vast silhouettes hide an abundance of layers, or else they’re tailored to the extreme, using the shape of the collar and shoulders to create a cold, inhuman sharpness to the piece. Dominated by eveningwear — dresses, slips, blouses and skirts — all in total black — this is a true neo-goth collection, the opposite of the bright “VSCO-girl” style predominant on social media.
Some of the designs look like museum pieces — distressed black leather used for the sharp jackets, for example.
Slicked-down hair, a complete lack of jewelry, multi-layered designs — all this pushed the philosophy of the show to an otherworldly, dark path. Not all was grimdark, however — we saw some designs in a muted red, blue and violet, for example.
Especially striking was the footwear — high plastic boots painted with black geometric shapes — something Maleficent would love to wear!
Lighter garments — such as the sheer black tops and the cardigans with black-on-grey printing — reminded us of the fashion looks of bands such as Cure and New Order.
The latter part of the show turned towards a more industrial, teachwear vein, yet still it was all very theatrical and haute-couture, much more a dark, silken art object than a dress. Yet this is not how Malyhina wants her creations to end up — it’s all supposed to be worn, loved and cherished. You can safely say that after this show and the level of mastery of the silhouette and fabric, Malygina can easily be listed in the same sentence as Rick Owens and Rei Kawakubo when we talk about the masters of dark, gothic, dramatic and unique garments.
The title partner of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia is Mercedes-Benz.
MBFW Russia partners: Aizel.ru (Official Partner), glo (Official Partner), Mary Kay (Official Make-Up Artist), MONÉ PROFESSIONAL (Official Style Artist), DHL (Official Logistics Partner), Sardinia (Official Partner), Metropol (Official Hotel).
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