FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia15th — 19th of October, 2019 Day 5, 19th of October
MUSIC SET |Alexander Anatolyevich yadi.sk/d/LTSemusC6jn_RwMUSIC SET |Alina Grosu yadi.sk/d/aJr_kjAUsQv2Ig STREETSTYLE yadi.sk/d/bq3KqY4KLGulkgBEHIND THE SCENES yadi.sk/d/lHNRcuL6s5jPiQ GUESTS yadi.sk/d/JCN-R78KdfvUwAVIDEO yadi.sk/d/ICo4apW1INFlZw POP-UP SHOP yadi.sk/d/AnTJirCtzxMtJQ
The final day of this season in Moscow presented an extremely eclectic selection of collections — from casualwear from such online retail giants as La Redoute and Russian independent brands like Kruzhok, all the way to guest collections from China and a mesmerizing conceptual finale.
PRESENTATION | Sergey Soroka x On Course
Before 2016, designer Sergey Soroka focused on menswear, and maybe, that is why most of the looks in the new collection featured austere lines, masculine shapes, and a basic pallet of colors with prevailing black and white combinations, as well as dark blue and dark grey shades. However, even masculine shapes the designer manages to charge with feminine vibration: here, formal suit coats are extended with hypertrophied shoulder line and slim silhouettes, and austere gown outlines have mini length. It’s impossible not to notice that the collection is rather utilitarian: shorts, pants, tops, asymmetrically cut blouses referring to the Victorian Age, maxi dresses and suits – it looks like a perfect stock of clothes for girls in Spring-Summer 2020 can be easily taken from Sergey Soroka x On Course.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/9hrmDEQRfICdcw VERALETTA & Diamond kids
The show of the collection mainly included gowns for true queens (yet, quite small ones). The final block included luxurious dresses – an evocation of style and grace, which children should acquire from the early age. Maxi length, voluminous skirts, mini alternatives with tulle trains, layers of draperies and sophisticated decorations (handmade embroidery and streams of shining details) – every young fashion lover will find a perfect look in the new collection.
PHOTO:yadi.sk/d/NqAew5cRCnXGcQLA REDOUTE (Maincollection / collaboration with Christelle Kocher) (France)
This special presentation of the French online retailer was absolutely packed with guests — a testament to its popularity here in Russia. Christelle Kocher is the founder of the Koché label, a graduate of Central Saint Martins and an alumni of such brands as Martine Sitbon, Emporio Armani, Sonia Rykiel and Dries Van Noten. The overarching idea behind this collab was creating a wardrobe for every day that re-interprets the classic pieces of Koché, in a casual sportswear spirit. A femininity that mixes couture and streetwear.
This collection included practical demi-season jackets and blouses in silver and bronze — casual, but extremely elegant — black leather jackets and jeans for everyday wear, as well as puffer coats for men and faux leather jacket-and-miniskirt combos for the ladies.
As for the palette, it was very light and summery — pink tartan, snakeskin print, gold, corduroy jackets and cardigans of sheer fabric in tan, skirts with simple floral prints in red, grey raincoats with yellow scarves as pleasing contrast for women, jean jackets for the lads.
The latter part of the show presented a darker segment of the collection — still very practical yet with an edge, utilizing black, white and red graphic prints across the leggings, dresses and shirts, as well as stripes in a similar palette across the tracksuit bottoms. The silver accents on the side of the leggings were especially striking.
Overall, a very wearable and energetic collection with a mind geared towards casual, yet edgy and fresh Spring and Summer fashions.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/Wb35tw866TJ3QwGLOBAL TALENTS: LEAF XIA (China)
Leaf Xia graduated from Parsons The New School For Design with a BFA in womenswear, showcasing at the Parsons 67th Annual Fashion Benefit Runway Show in 2015. Her thesis work has also been exhibited in Saks Fifth Avenue window display in New York. Leaf Xia has been named Fashion Scout's SS16 " Ones to Watch ", receiving a sponsored catwalk show and exhibition during London Fashion Week in 2015. The success of her first collection, saw Xia gain notable attention, her clothing published in Vogue, Glamour, etc. She is the first Chinese designer to collaborate with the ice cream brand Magnum and who showed their collaborated SS17 collection at Shanghai Fashion Week
With this collection she strived to create a wonderland in color. Bright and dazzling garments with traditional Chinese influences, mostly puffer coats in pink and peach. Her studio prides itself on patterning — the more and brighter the better — so on the thick velvet and silk coats of bright glossy fabric one could see a ton of applique and needlework: koi carp, exotic flowers, maidens playing musical instruments and other ornaments.
Cute woolen hats (both wide-brim and bucket variety) and quirky accessories were seen (souble sleeves on a parka for example, or a coat that resembled a couple of pillows genly tied around the waist of the model). Glittery earrings, fluffy shawls and scarves serves as accessories for the collection, all sparkly and extremely cute in their multitude of colors.
Yet despite the bright tone of the garments it all felt very cozy and duvet-like. Something close to the Harajuku style, but much softer and gentler, less cutting and edgy. You could call this bedroom-chic.
Rounding off this very playful and pretty collection was an assortment of wool coats in deep blue, all finished off with more applique work of planets, animals and symbols.glo brand, supporting Global Talents.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/ABowARMahkTLLQ Ziad NAKAD (Lebanon)
The collection by Ziad NAKAD, presented at the Fashion Week in Moscow, was rich in Oriental motives. All the models appeared at the catwalk in long evening gowns, every successive one different from the previous one. Some were decorated with gem and sparkle embroidery. The others were different in shapes – tight or voluminous. Sculptured asymmetric sleeves or high cuts and deep decolletes – these were options to suit any taste. It was hard to name a key color here: traditionally, the designer complimented women with images of various shades, including tender nude and deep black. The final look in this collection was a wedding dress, and the model slowly moved down the catwalk so that the audience could enjoy every detail. Elegancy and refinement of every gown is a remarkable feature of this brand.
Having started life in 2015 as a photojournal documenting the evolution of Russian underground culture, Stas Falkov’s Kruzhok completed its transformation into fully-fledged streetwear brand in late 2017. Since then, Kruzhok’s clothing has continued to offer a window into the cultural landscape of contemporary Russia by depicting subjects as diverse as Russian cityscapes, former Soviet resorts and lower-league football grounds. Influenced by photography as a medium, the brand’s collections preserve the original cinematic aesthetic of Falkov’s photojournal.
This collection was not for the faint of heart — mostly dark, techwear and industrial garments in a color palette of dirty greens and greys, with a definite Tarkovsky’s “Stalker”/amphibian vibe.
Most models came out in overalls, work trousers or some sort of protective wear, rusty red, pond green or all-black. Divers masks, balaclavas, rebreathers, strange contraptions seemingly used for survival in a sci-fi apocalypse — all accessories for Falkov. Leggings and army-style baggy pants, asymmetrical trousers, short bomber jackets in camo, overalls and diving tubes — all set to a brutal industrial soundtrack (broken only by a fully-fledged operatic soprano walking in the show, singing all the way, wearing a BDSM-style facial mask, covered in gemstones).
Other models came out wearing strange contraptions on their heads — these contained facial recognition protection projectors, similar to those used to mask one’s face during a protest. Finishing off this unrelenting and experimental show was a model pushing an elderly lady in a shopping cart (hooked up to some futuristic cyberpunk rubber tubing, pumping pink slime in a tank).The show was participated by models of elegant age.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/OZ3DJzzRwB5tiw NASTYA NEKRASOVA
Nastya Nekrasova is a fashion brand founded in 2017. Her collections are created with great attention to detail and with an emphasis on tailoring and an eclectic use of materials and custom developed fabrics.
This new collection, deconstructed and handmade, felt like a bold experimentation with menswear and womenswear.
The garments themselves, mostly grey, light tan, black and ashy in palette, provided a wonderful canvas, on which Nekrasova told her story of assembly and disassembly. Sewn-on cotton prints of hands and slogans such as “TEAR APART” provided context for this collection — it seems Nekrasova wanted to disassemble her subjects identity and allow them the freedom of individuality through her designs. Yet a lot of the models were uniform — grey and sandy tones, ghostly hand silhouettes, mysterious lines across the designs.
There was, however, still an artful softness about the collection, and it showed — in the red ropes hanging from some of the garments.
A meditation on the format of fashion itself, this collection will be right up the alley for an artsy, museum-going fashion crowd.
“Crazy clothes with an idea” is the ultimate concept behind the brand – a theme that reveals itself more and more clearly with each new collection. The young brand has managed to win the hearts of both Russian and European media with its unusual vision. The designer is not afraid to rethink almost all aspects of men’s and women’s fashion and present them afresh to the public in a manner that reflects a very bold vision. Roman Uvarov considers deconstruction to be his main method. He is also inclined towards capturing a sense of playfulness in his work.
This time he has set his sight on Roma culture, specifically the Roma wedding ceremonies — all gold, opulence and richest, the most vivid of colors, the most wild designs.
Dressed to impress, the models walked out as if straight from a celebratory wedding dinner from Moldova — ruffled shirts, kaftan dresses, magnificent black jackets covered in wildflowers.
A lot of context was needed to understand a collection like this — jackets made out of a kleenka-like fabric (a common plastic fabric used for tables in Slavic villages).
The crux of the collection was Uvarovs use of red-with-flowers print, used in dresses, wild and loose cowboy shirts, blouses for men and women. This was all accentuated with gold — on the boots, on the jewelry, on the belts, everywhere one could place it.
Flowery shawls — a common element of Romani culture, flower appliques — even ancient revolvers (as if stolen from a grandfather’s drawer to exact a bride’s revenge upon an unfaithful groom!) made an appearance. The mystique and beauty of Roma people also was shown, with beautiful sombrero-like hats and long, flowing draped dresses bringing us closer to a funeral after the aforementioned revenge.
Finally, the bride herself entered, cutting all through the crimson suits and dresses with her sharp bridal look, adorned with flowers, and then finally strutting on the runway, gun in hand, with Uvarov himself, being showered with rice from all sides, as the real bride and groom of this fashion week.
Never has there been a Romani wedding like this, and if anyone could bring it to a runway, it was Uvarov.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/twQwOXS0GwIsAAProduct of imitation
Product of Imitation is a practical yet conceptual brand created by Russian designer Anton Galetsky with Elena Vitebskaia, which strives to create a synthesis of all trends and a stripped-bare essence of the whole of the industry
This time they seemed to create a timewarp into the 1980’s, starting off with white leather bolero jackets with matching dresses. A strong Soviet 70’s influence followed — silk jumpsuits and powertrip pantsuits from the 80’s.
Very “Working Girl” outfits, with Jackson Pollock splatter patterns all across the surface of the garments, were also noticeable. Wool coats of cobalt blue, as well as white and black jackets reminiscent of works of Karl Lagerfeld were the backbone of this collection.
Wedgewood-color dresses, made perfect under white broquard jackets or shimmery teal, jumpsuits and draped summer dresses — we were by this point moving on to the late 80’s in the United States. An all-80s-teen fashion followed, with pastel pattern jackets and dresses and then we were finally on to the 90’s with Spice Girls sweaters. A full tilt trip across time and space - starting off with Soviet patterns of the 70’s all the way to American pleated green and blue blouses and skirts
Finishing the show was a vast ruffled dress in blue — just right for a graduation, or a reunion straight out of “Romy and Michelle”.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/Dc1ztq3Nh_fsbg SERGEY SYSOEV
To the vivacious singing by Alla Pugachyova “I’ve been waiting for you for so long”, at the curtain of the catwalk talking couples appeared – and this was the start of the show. The SERGEY SYSOEV brand uses the dandyism concept and tries it in the today’s context. This is how he makes flawless seams, perfect cuts, and impeccable fit, which organically neighbor on oversize models. Classic jackets and suit coats, double breasted overcoats, pleated pants, pencil skirts – all of them are so typical, and yet they look anew in this collection. In the first place, this is thanks to the prints: fine spots, checks of every size, floral and graphic options, or dragonflies on the clothes. There are peculiar details like flowers on breast pockets that catch the eye. Key colors of the collection are ivory, burgundy, and black.
PHOTO: yadi.sk/d/pAKKGnZ1mqfF4gPERFOMANCE | Tigran Avetisyan
Finishing this season off was a presentation by Tigran Avetisyan — a Moscow-based designer with a background in product design. After graduating from Central Saint Martins, he received a LVMH grant to produce his graduate collection. His work is heavily conceptual and explores the nature of fashion garments as marketed commodities. As a result, his work is self-reflective and not without humor, commenting on the ever-accelerating speed and greed of the fashion industry. He treats clothing as a product and uses marketing languages to create subversive and thought-provoking collections.
This was an apogee of sorts for the fashion industry for Avetisyan. A bare runway, all-white, with five or six vaguely human-shaped cubical sculptures.
As Avetisyan and several of his male assistants entered the runway, which was filled to the brim, with guests clamoring outside to get a glimpse of the performance, we could tell right away this was not going to be your regular fashion show.
As they slowly poured a colorful mixture of foamy paint-like substance over the shapes on the runway, his intent became clear — these were models, the slow drips of the paint cloaking them in what was unmistakeably a fashionable outfit. Some “wore” a dress, other a striking suit.
After they were done they bowed to a fanfare of music and promptly left, with the announcer asking the audience to step onto the runway to view the “models” from all angles, the foamy paint now completely solidified into “garments.
An incredible conceptualization of the runway, a philosophical art object and a groundbreaking finale for a varied and a truly international fashion week.
The title partner of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia is Mercedes-Benz.
MBFW Russia partners: Aizel.ru (Official Partner), glo (Official Partner), Mary Kay (Official Make-Up Artist), MONÉ PROFESSIONAL (Official Style Artist), DHL (Official Logistics Partner), Sardinia (Official Partner), Metropol (Official Hotel).
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