The final day of Fashion Futurum began with discussions around an important topic – Government Regulation of the Fashion Industry: International Experience.
The final day of Fashion Futurum began with discussions around an important topic – Government Regulation of the Fashion Industry: International Experience. Among those who shared their ideas on the issue were State Secretary, Deputy Minister of Industry and Trade of the Russian Federation Mr. Victor Evtuhov, President of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana Mr. Carlo Capasa (Italy), President of European Branded Clothing Alliance Mr. Ignacio Sierra (Belgium), Director General of Grupo Cortefiel (Spain), and Executive President of the Russian Fashion Council Mr. Alexander Shumsky. Mr. Evtuhov underlined the connection between fashion industry and production capacities of the consumer goods industry. He talked about the State Programme for Development of Consumer Goods Industry, signed recently by the Russian Prime-Minister Mr. Dmitry Medvedev, which provides for financial support of producers by the Industry Development Foundation and Russian Agricultural Bank as well as through leasing schemes. The state budget also allocates funds for purchase of high-tech equipment for export-oriented producers. The Programme facilitates interaction between producers and retailers, supports Russian and international fashion contest and shows, assisted the creation of several Internet-based platforms for professionals engaged in clothing production. Some of the very important undertakings include shifting of companies, including foreign residents of the Russian market, towards Russian suppliers, strict control of the quality of school uniform fabrics, combating counterfeit and illegally-imported products, development of RFID tags which includes information on the product’s genealogy. Withdrawal of European mass-market brands from the Russian market, national currency depreciation and import decline are seen by the Deputy Minister as conditions for growth of national production, as an opportunity for Russian producers to occupy this niche. Mr. Ignacio Sierra agreed that the proposed policies can bring good results as it happened in Spain. Large companies, specializing in exports, began to buy designers’ brands, promote their products through fashion shows and e-sales, develop their own production facilities, connect with local suppliers. These processes resulted in companies establishing their own value addition chains ensuring sustainable development. Mr. Sierra also emphasized the importance of logistics, which became crucial in the context of global e-commerce. In Italy production of lux-branded clothes is the national scale business. Mr. Carlo Capasa told the audience about the system of industrial districts, which turned out efficient for Italy, as well as about the importance of innovation and tradition. Italian students, graduates of the schools of design and young brands have an opportunity for the first 5 years of their work to gain experience and train with internationally acclaimed companies and to exhibit their collections for free during the fashion weeks. They learn not only the finer secrets of the profession, but also how to promote their products, chose the right fabrics and reliable suppliers. Thus, they are introduced into the business gradually and thoroughly. However, the Italian market’s goals differ from those of other markets – they are set to maintain high levels of export and constant improvement of the products’ quality.
Panel discussion themed as Future of Fashion Retail: E-Commerce vs. Traditional Distribution gathered representatives of large retailers. Mr. Denis Pak, Director of the Department of Internal Trade, Consumer Goods Industry and the Consumer Market in the Ministry of Industry and Trade of the Russian Federation, talked about the specifics of Russian fashion market. For small producers e-commerce in Russia is becoming the key opportunity, accessing large retail stores is complicated for them, and at the initial stage the funds are hardly enough to open their own stores. The government is putting efforts towards creating a large national retail platform. There are barriers for exports of small consignments of goods from Russia. Customs administration should be improved and associated logistics should be simplified in order to make such business profitable for small companies. Mrs. Lee Anne Grant (Vice-President of Shopstyle.com) presented the Shopstyle.com platform by an American company Popshugar. This is a content-company, specialized in promotion of products for women. They currently represent 85% of all online sales in the USA. Mrs. Grant advised the beginning designers to thoroughly study their target audience. She gave an example of the “Z” generation – kids born after 1990, who can only focus on one thing or topic for no longer than 8 seconds, which is twice as short as was the case with the previous generation. They constitute a huge audience, and it would be easier to reach them by placing adverts in the social networks, providing quick opportunity to purchase the product, including via a smartphone. Mr. Carl Waldekranz, CEO of Tictail, Sweden, also mainly targets the American market. His service, called Tictail, was created to assist small producers, who make good quality clothing, but fail to properly market it. Separate websites, convenient for both the retailer and the buyer, have since turned into united international network, where anyone can easily create his or her own e-store. Tictail explores new retail technologies, collaborates with other platforms and is currently launching the first off-line store. Mr. Giulio Di Sabato worked in the retail show-rooms at various levels. Now he is the President of Assomoda Association (Italy). Giulio talked about crucial moments in the history of Assomoda, when this firm, which used to be a retailer, turned into an agency providing free consultations of the demand specifics for beginners. Assomoda began to support young designers by buying out the products at the set price ensuring profit and insuring against risks. This, together with coaching, are very important components of support, according to Giulio. All the speakers see the future of the retail in multichannel and cross distribution, in supporting e-commerce through opening off-line stores, and, on the other hand, in ensuring quick delivery and accessibility of the products. Mr. Blanca Moro, Co-Founder of O’Shea&Moro Fashion Business Consulting, a specialist in the creative management of fashion companies, also took part in the discussion.
Museum Exhibits: Fashion as Art was the next subject on the agenda of the Press conference, Elena Panteleeva (Head of Cultural Projects of Skolkovo Innovation Center) moderated the talk. Speakers discussed the designers' garments from the point of view of their artistic value and underlined the importance of preserving designers' works in archives. Vasily Tsereteli (Executive Director of Moscow Museum of Modern Art) told about museums' collaborations with designers and artists highlighting that 'in the future the museum is planning to come closer to the fashion segment and think about collecting.' Cyril Duval (Special Projects Director at Flash Art International) shared his opinion on peculiarities of the smart approach to building an exposition for young designers and the importance of disclosing the brand's culture. Apart from the above speakers Kate Bethune (Senior Fashion Researcher at Victoria&Albert Museum) and Kaat Debo (Director and Curator at Mode Museum Antwerpen Momu) took part in the discussion.
In scopes of the International Forum Fashion Futurum, Manege hosted the Master Class: How to Print a Collection at Home - 3D Printing Tips From a Pro. Danit Peleg, fashion designer from Israel and producer of the first fashion collection made on 3D printer, shared some tips with the audience. It took Danit 300 hours to produce certain garments of the collection. In general, the production process turned out to be quite simple - every element of the clothing item is printed in A4 format and further manually glued with the special glue. Designer states that 3D printing is the future of fashion industry: more and more people can afford buying such printers while machines are becoming more efficient every day. 3D printer has the special element - extruder, it works in layers starting from the bottom. Special software is used before launching the printing process. Initially a project is created in the program, later some alignments should be done before the draft goes into printing. Approximate cost of every item is 30 dollars. This is the cost of one roll of unusual plastic thread of which the garments are actually made.
The final part of the Conference was Digital Future: Technologies that Change the Fashion Industry and discussed development perspectives of the fashion industry and virtual reality. Eddie Mullon (President of Fashion GPS, service for designers, brands and media) told about the specific features of the GPS system. Craig Arend (fashion photographer, consultant and Virtual Reality expert) made a statement that 'virtual reality increases the conversion level.' Vladislav Chernovetsky (Director of Creative Content, the studio producing fashion content in virtual reality format) reassured that 'technologies will rule the world, they are doing it already' and shared his opinion that possibly soon we would have the opportunity to watch movies in 360 format. Alexander Shulgin (Visionary, venture investor, author) made a speech saying that until 2030 fashion world would have undergone tremendous changes. 'We will have up to a billion devices connected to the Internet,' was what he said. 'Any subject will possess its #hashtag, every object will be able to communicate with another object.' Yurate Gurauskaite (Editor-in-chief of InStyle Russia) also took part in the discussion.